PROVINS - Intact Medieval French City Known For Rose Gardens and Ramparts (Day Trip from Paris)

One of my absolute favourite day-trips from Paris is Provins. While I was living in the French capital, I often took the train to visit.

Provins is a prime example of an intact medieval city. The ramparts, cathedral, and surrounding town transport any visitors back in time. The town is also known for it’s rose garden, which offers any tourist a relaxing and scent-filled getaway from the smoke-filled Parisian air.

Any city with its own #sign should be seen as cool, that’s a fact!

Provins was a wealthy medieval city, that often held the Fairs of Champagne, a fair in which many neighbouring merchants came to sell their wares. Thanks to its medieval fortifications, it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2001.

I don’t suggest visiting on either a Sunday or a Monday, as most small French towns are closed on those days (I learned that the hard way.)

Besides that, there are four things about Provins that I want to highlight. They are:

The church Saint-Quiriace
Cesar Tower
The ramparts
The rose garden
The food

The Eagles of the Ramparts show (Aigles des Ramparts - Vol Libre Production) is also well worth seeing if you have the time. Falconry was an art practised in Provins of the Middle Ages, and it is a skill that is still being practiced today.

The show is essentially a display in which expertly trained birds of prey are allowed to fly around an open-air arena and show off their prowess. It is magnificent to see in person!

Alright, now let us get on with the review of this tremendous medieval French city!

1. Saint-Quiriace Collegiaite church (Collégiale Saint-Quiriace de Provins)

The Eglise Saint Quiraice is a 12-century church, most notably visited by the famed Joan of Arc (Jeanne d’Arc) in 1429.

The church was never fully built, as its initial architectural plans became more expensive than expected. The church displays common early characteristics of gothic architecture.

Below are photos depicting the exterior and the interior of the church. You may take note of the many gothic architectural elements, that are not quite as refined as some other famed churches in France which were constructed at later dates.

This plaque was set up outside the church to commemorate the 5th centenary (500 years) of the day Joan of Arc attended mass at the Church of Saint Quiraice. She came to this church on the 3rd of August, 1429, along with King Charles VII.

Below is one of the church’s chapels, dedicated to Saint Thébaut, and Saint Edme. All of them include very intriguing diaplays of medieval stained glass.

2. Cesar tower (La tour Césare)

Panoramic views of Provins are abundant in César Tower.

This 12th century dungeon, watchtower, and prison has a rich history, that extends to both the French and English. During the War of 100 Years (La Guerre de Cent Ans), it was even occupied by English forces. They built the walls that now surround the structure, essentially making it stand atop an artificial moat.

The tower, once a symbol of Provins’ power, houses a bell that rings every hour.

If you have difficulty walking up uneven stairs, or are claustrophobic, it may not be wise to go up the tower. However, for those who are interested, there are picturesque views of the city perched atop a mountain-top. There are also bells on the top floor.

Be aware that it is very windy inside the tower. The higher you go, the more wind you encounter. Hold onto your belongings!

I personally recommend climbing the tower. I think it puts into perspective the entire city of Provins. It really highlights how high the city lies, and it helps you grasps a concept of its size. The ramparts also look intriguing from this distance.

The price of one admission is 4,30 € for adults, and 2,80 € for kids. Children under 4 years of age can go in for free.

The ramparts (Les ramparts)

These magnificent vestiges built between the 11th and 13th century are still standing to this day. Wrapped around the walled city, the 25m high ramparts used to provide Provins with ample protection. Today, the vast Porte Saint Jean is wide open for tourists and locals alike to stroll through and explore the great fortified wall structure.

Each tower you spot along the rampart is made in a different shape - this was a way for the wealthy middle age town to signify the prowess their builders. Any merchants or travellers to the town would know right away that Provins had money, and talented townspeople.

Don’t let me talk on and on about this imposing structure, have a look for yourself:

The Rose Garden of provins (Le jardin de rose de provins)

Romantics will rejoice upon the discovery of Provins’ famed rose garden. La Roseraie is a tranquil and

For a small fee, you can visit the rose garden, which boasts over 450 types of roses. It’s well worth visiting, and I highly recommend allowing yourself to wander for an hour through the vast 3.5 hectare space. You can always bring along a book, and read while tucked away among the plants.

There are labels notifying you about the name of each variety of rose.

La Roseraie also has its own café that serves rose-flavoured goods, such as rose flavoured tea and ice-cream. I highly suggest trying the ice-cream. I’m not a huge rose fanatic, but I was converted after trying how fresh it was. The gift shop also has an assortment of rose soaps, perfumes, and other beauty products for those who can’t get enough of the floral scent.

There are seats tucked away into many corners of the space. There is also a small stream, whose sound leaves you feeling tranquil the entire time you’re exploring.

One ticket to the garden is 7 € in the spring/ summer season, and 4,5 € in the autumn/ winter season. It is 21€ to purchase an annual pass, and kids under 12 can enter free.

The Food

There were two standout things I had while I was in Provins: honey, and roses.

Yes, you heard me right. Roses.

The city famed for its rose garden uses this particular ingredient in a myriad of manners. Think rose flavoured ice-cream, rose tea, rose candies, chocolate, rose sugar, rose petal jam, rose marshmallows, and even rose liquor. Be sure to check out a few of the independent shops and cafés to pick up some rose delights before you leave.

Some of my favourite spots to find these floral concoctions are Les Comptoirs, situated near César Tower, Créneaux Chocolat, on a side street just off of the road towards The Ramparts, A La Croisée des Chemins, situated in the main town square, and the ice-cream and tea found in La Roseraie de Provins, which is the main rose garden’s café.

The other treat I recommend is the honey. The best shop from which to buy some is La Ronde des Abeilles, which is situated near the Church Saint-Quiraice. Here, you can find - what else? - but rose-flavoured honey. It’s a must. While you’re at it, pick up one of their rose teas. You won’t be disappointed!

How to get there

It only takes about 1 hour and 20-30 minutes to reach Provins from Paris. It is definitely a viable day-trip given, and the views from the train window make it a pleasant journey.

If you have a metro pass (a Mobilis pass or a Navigo pass) that goes to Zone 5, then this trip is completely free! If not, you can purchase an affordable ticket either online via the SNCF website, or at the SNCF ticket booths at Gare de l’Est.

To go to Provins, go to Gare de Paris Est, and find any Transition Line P train with Provins as a destination. During regular scheduling, trains tend to leave once every hour.

My particular journey took 1h 20 minutes. The train left from Gare de l’Est, had one stop at Longueville, and then arrived at Provins.

The first time I went to Provins, I spent the day from 10:00 a.m. to 6:45 p.m. in the city, and that was more than enough time for me to discover its beauty. However, I have been back many a time since that initial trip, and I definitely think its a city that has a lot to offer!

Given that it’s a cheap day trip from Paris (or a free day trip if you have a Mobilis or Navigo pass), I definitely think it’s something unique and beautiful to visit as a quick getaway from the metropolitan city.

If the prospect of stepping back in time, and walking through a city whose facades and buildings have been nearly untouched since the Middle Ages, then Provins is an architectural gem you must visit.